We had our pecans shelled for us and now I have bags of the husks just hanging around. I remember someone telling me not to throw them away and to use them in the yard, but I don't remember how.
The old cliché, "Waste not, want not," comes to mind. There are actually several uses for your shells.
First, there's mulch. One writer suggested that the sharp edges of the shell might deter cats from digging around your plants. More likely, the squirrels will want to scour the mother lode, looking for leftovers. Either way, the University of Florida considers pecan shells as an alternative organic material, along with cocoa bean shells. Pecan shell mulch is slightly acidic and is especially good around acid-loving plants such as azaleas.
Pecan shells will eventually decompose and are therefore, good candidates for your compost bin.
And why not replace the mesquite and hickory chips you use to flavor your barbecue with pecan shells? They will give the meat a soft, sweet flavor.
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Though it's not something you should try at home, it is interesting that several universities around the Southeast have researched using processed and prepared pecan shells to treat contaminated water with some success.
To paraphrase a currently well-known legume, "Ah, the power of the lowly pecan shell. …"
What is the best kind of mulch to use in the garden?
As we clear away dead leaves, fallen branches and even the occasional shrub that was supposed to grow here, many of us are beginning to think about this very question.
The answer lies in answering a few other questions first. "Why do we mulch our plants and beds in the first place?" "How much am I willing to spend?" "Am I comfortable with the possible environmental impact my mulch may cause?"
An obvious reason for mulching is simply aesthetics. Landscapes simply look crisper, tidier and, to many, more attractive with neatly edged borders and freshly mulched beds.
As important as that, however, are the many benefits mulch offers our plants. A good layer of mulch helps retain the soil's moisture, prevents runoff and erosion, limits weeds, protects plants from mowing injuries and moderates the soil temperature.
Organic mulches have the extra benefit of eventually decomposing, returning nutrients back to the soil and improving the soil's texture. There are many bagged organic mulches available, but recycling your yard trimmings (grass clippings, leaves/pine needles, and tree trimmings) is free and environmentally sound. That "free" part is hard to beat. If you're using grass clippings, make sure you're not incorporating weed seeds. Also, use only small amounts. You've probably noticed that grass clippings heat up as they break down. These will also tie up nitrogen in the soil.
Inorganic mulches, like gravel, pebbles and even shredded rubber provide some of the same benefits and are considered by some to be low-maintenance.
Personally, spreading mulch on cleaned and weeded beds is my favorite part of the job. It's the easiest part and means I'm almost finished. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch around established plants and trees, being careful to avoid "volcano mulching" - allowing a pile of mulch to collect against the plants trunk, a practice that encourages rot, provides homes for rodents and can ultimately kill the trees.
Maintain that depth throughout the year by replenishing the mulch once or twice.
Old mulches can become matted and prevent water from getting to the plant roots. It's a good practice to occasionally rake, discard and replace it.
Two caveats to keep in mind. Avoid using trimmings from invasive exotic species unless it is specifically treated for this purpose, like melaleuca. It may spread the seeds.
The Florida-Friendly Landscaping Program (a program operating as part of the Environmental Horticulture Department of the University of Florida) does not recommend using cypress mulch unless the label states that it is a by-product of making construction materials, or is from trees specifically grown for the production of mulch.
I didn't do well with vegetable plants from seed last year, but I'd like to try it again. Any tips?
Every gardener I've met has THE secret to successful seed starting. "Gardening tips" are what books and magazines are made from.
Having made this disclaimer, there are a handful of general things to start with.
Start with good seed from reputable dealers of varieties recommended for our part of the world. The Florida Vegetable Guide (edis.ifas.ufl.edu/vh021) is the best place to start with descriptions and growing information for hundreds of varieties, as well as solid information about locating and preparing your garden.
(If you're planning to plant seeds that you've collected, remember that the parent plant may have been a hybrid. If so, the seeds might be sterile or won't mature to be true to the parent. If you're planning to just experiment, then you have permission to try any old thing.)
Start with good soil that holds moisture while providing good drainage. This may mean you will have to amend your garden soil if you are direct sowing in the garden. You may instead want to use a sterile commercial seed starting mix and start your plants in containers either indoors or out. The key is, of course, that the seedlings need good soil.
Read the package information. Every package will tell you at what depth to plant the seed, the sun/shade conditions it prefers and days to harvest. Be careful not to plant your seeds too deep. Although most vegetable seeds will germinate without sunlight, none will grow if they're buried.
Once your seedlings germinate, you'll want to water them carefully. Young plants need frequent but light irrigation. The type of soil will also dictate watering frequency. Use drip irrigation and mulches to help conserve water.
These "first steps" with the guidance of the Vegetable Guide should get you off on the right foot.
About the author: Paula Weatherby is a master gardener with the Duval County Extension Service and the University of Florida/IFAS.
