The Oxford vs the Derby Shoe (2024)

If you're new to men's artisanal shoes, it's important to know the difference between two of the most common style of men's shoes, the oxford vs the derby.

Here at Norman Vilalta, we put together a short little guide for you to better understand the differences between an oxford and derby shoe:

The Oxford vs the Derby Shoe (1)
Above is an example of an oxford shoe, our Mario Cap Toe Oxford.

An oxford and a derby shoe are both types of formal footwear that are commonly worn with suits and formal attire. However, there are some key differences between the two styles of shoes that you should understand:

1. Lacing

One of the main differences between oxfords and derbys is the way the laces are closed.

Oxfords have a closed lacing system, which means the facings, the section of the shoe that have the laces are sewn under the vamp (the front part of the shoe that covers the top of the foot). This creates a sleek, streamlined appearance.

In contrast, derbys have an open lacing system, which means the facings are sewn on top of the vamp. This allows you to open up the facings of the shoe wider and provides more flexibility for those with a high-arch or wide feet.

This detail of the derby also gives the shoes a more relaxed, less formal look.

The Oxford vs the Derby Shoe (2)

Note how in the oxford shoe above, the facings of the oxford, the area of the shoe where the laces are located, is covered by a leather piece at the vamp, which restricts movement of the lacing area.

On the derbyin the photo above, the area with the lacings is in a section of the shoe that can be opened up since the leather pieces are sewn on top of the vamp.

2. Toe shape

Another difference between oxfords and derbys is the shape of the toe. Oxfords often have a more pointed, chiseled toe, which gives them a more formal, sophisticated appearance.

Derbys on the other hand often have a more rounded toe, which gives them a more casual, laid-back appearance.

3.Formality

Overall, oxfords are considered more formal than derbys. They are typically worn with formal attire, such as suits, tuxedos, and formal dresses.

The Oxford vs the Derby Shoe (3)

Above is an example of our Wholecut Oxford, a design that is one of our more formal of shoes with an elegantly elongated vamp and unique side lacing.

Derbys, on the other hand, are considered less formal and are typically worn with more casual attire, such as khakis and sports jackets.

4. Occasions

Oxfords are typically worn to formal events, such as weddings, black-tie affairs, and formal business meetings.

For those who wear suits in the office, the Oxford is the more typical choice since it is a more traditional business look.

Derbys are more versatile and can be worn to a wider range of occasions, including casual business meetings and more relaxed social events.

They are the perfect go-to alternative to sneakers and can be worn comfortably on a weekend trip, walk through the city or on a special date.

The Oxford vs the Derby Shoe (4)

Above is an example of a derby shoe, our Coltrane Wingtip Derby.

In summary, oxfords and derbys are both formal shoes, but they differ in their lacing systems, toe shapes, and overall formality.

Oxfords are sleeker and more formal, while derbys are more relaxed and casual.

To learn more about men's shoes and our high-quality Goodyear-welted shoes, read more articles from our blog on Understanding Norman Vilalta Shoes.

Shopoxfords and derby shoes today

The Oxford vs the Derby Shoe (2024)

FAQs

The Oxford vs the Derby Shoe? ›

As detailed above, the lacing system is the primary difference between an Oxford and a derby. While an Oxford has a closed-facing stitched to the vamp, the derby open facings are stitched on top.

What is the difference between an Oxford and Derby shoe? ›

On the oxford shoes, also called balmoral, the lacing piece is stitched frontally to the vamp piece. On the derby shoes, the lacing piece is not stitched frontally to the vamp piece, and usually, the vamp piece continues till the tongue piece.

Are derby shoes considered formal? ›

Owing to their versatility, Derby shoes fit effortlessly into multiple attires, both casual and formal. They are the perfect choice for business casual outfits where they have to be paired with jeans or chinos and a simple shirt, minus the blazer or the jacket.

Can I wear derby shoes with a suit? ›

Conversely, Derby Shoes, if worn with a suit, are best worn with a sports jacket and pants as part of a separates ensemble, or with a more casual suit such as a linen or cotton suit during the spring / summer months! – Alternatively, Derby Shoes can be worn with dark denim jeans or chinos on an evening out!

When should derby shoes be worn? ›

They can be worn with casual outfits, but also with combinationals and suits. While derbies are sometimes worn with Black Tie, according to conventional Classic Style rules, oxfords or opera pumps are more appropriate for formal evening occasions.

Do oxfords or derbys go with jeans? ›

Dress shoes are an ideal choice to balance out the rough appearance of jeans. For semi-formal events, opt for derby shoes to add a touch of elegance to your outfit. To formal events (that still allow jeans), reach for your oxfords and add a blazer to keep up to date with the style.

Is a derby better than an Oxford for wide feet? ›

For example, when adding broguing to your oxfords you will make them more casual. Derby shoes allow people with wider or narrower feet to fit better as the lacing pieces allow more possibilities to find the proper tightening.

Is a derby or Oxford better with a tuxedo? ›

Oxford shoes in patent leather are the most accepted shoe for the tux dress code because of their high formal shine. However, you can opt for calfskin leather oxford shoes if thoroughly polished.

Do you wear socks with derby shoes? ›

Socks are important; the mark of a true gentleman is one who has considered every element of his outfit – from his pocket square right down to the socks we wear. If you're wearing brogues, derby shoes or monks, you need to be wearing socks.

Do derby shoes go with jeans? ›

Much like loafers, derbies are a less formal option. They are generally worn with smart casual and casual outfits. However, when paired well with sharp suits, they can serve the role of dress shoes perfectly well. Derby shoes are a great match for outfits featuring jeans and shirts as well.

Can you wear derby shoes in summer? ›

Derby shoes are the perfect synthesis of elegance and sportiness, for a style that is formal but not too formal. 4. They have no seasonality: you can wear them in spring, summer, autumn and winter and always get the same, irresistible, result.

Can I wear derby shoes with shorts? ›

Derby shoes and shorts

A nice pair of suede derbies adds a softness which ties in with this look very well, though you should not shy away from leather derbies, provided that the shorts are a tailored fit and are well-pressed. When wearing any shoe style with shorts, the popular choice is to wear a sockless look.

When to wear oxford shoes? ›

Formal Occasions

The Oxford shoe is the perfect piece to tie together a formal outfit. Be it black tie or co*cktail events, the Oxford is a stylish shoe that will pack a punch. For the conservative types, black leather Oxford shoes will never lead you astray. Brown leather Oxfords will work well with grey or navy suits.

What are oxford shoes good for? ›

People wear Oxfords primarily for their elegance and timeless design. They are versatile, fitting for both formal events and semi-formal settings. Oxfords have a rich history and have been the footwear choice for many elites, making them an enduring classic.

Can I Wear derby shoes with jeans? ›

Much like loafers, derbies are a less formal option. They are generally worn with smart casual and casual outfits. However, when paired well with sharp suits, they can serve the role of dress shoes perfectly well. Derby shoes are a great match for outfits featuring jeans and shirts as well.

Why an Oxford shoe is called an Oxford? ›

Oxfords were derived from the Oxonian, a half-boot with side slits that gained popularity at Oxford University in 1800. Unlike early shoes, Oxfords were cut smaller than the foot. The side slit evolved into a side lace that eventually moved to the instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots.

Top Articles
Latest Posts
Article information

Author: Edmund Hettinger DC

Last Updated:

Views: 5830

Rating: 4.8 / 5 (78 voted)

Reviews: 85% of readers found this page helpful

Author information

Name: Edmund Hettinger DC

Birthday: 1994-08-17

Address: 2033 Gerhold Pine, Port Jocelyn, VA 12101-5654

Phone: +8524399971620

Job: Central Manufacturing Supervisor

Hobby: Jogging, Metalworking, Tai chi, Shopping, Puzzles, Rock climbing, Crocheting

Introduction: My name is Edmund Hettinger DC, I am a adventurous, colorful, gifted, determined, precious, open, colorful person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.