Design 101: Everything You Need to Know About Linen Fabric (2024)

Linen fabric is a natural textile made from plant fibers. It's used to make clothing, curtains, tablecloths, pillows, rugs, rope, and more. Linen is known for its breathability, durability, and versatility although it is prone to wrinkling and stiffness. Linen is often blended with cotton (another natural plant fiber) to give it softness and loosen creases.

What Is Linen?

Linen is a lightweight, sustainable fabric made from flax fibers. Flax comes from aflowering annual plant,Linum usitatissimum, growing about 3 to 4 feet tall. The tall varieties make fabric; the seeds make linseed oil and flax milk.

The taller the flax plant, the longer the fiber. It is the world's strongest natural fiber, far more durable than cotton. It grows fast in temperate climates, ready for harvest after 100 days, preferring full sun and moist soil.

Linen vs. Cotton

Linen and cotton are similar fabrics both made from the fibers of different plants that have similar qualities. Cotton is a natural fiber derived from the fibers in the cotton plant's fruit capsules, or bolls. Linen is made from fibers extracted from the stems of the flax plant.

Linen can be two to three times stronger than cotton and it dries much faster—a quality that helps dissipate heat faster. But it is also more expensive and less elastic, so it wrinkles more than cotton.

The History of Linen Fabric

The flax plant has been cultivated in almost every country and used to make fiber for thousands of years. Historical evidence points to its use by humans dating back more than 35,000 years in Paleolithic times. Linen was considered precious and used for wrapping the bodies of mummies in Egypt, contributing to preserving these ancient treasures.

Linen's antibacterial and antifungal properties have made it an important textile for use on battlefields throughout history. Today, linen is blended with cotton to make the sturdy, paper-like substance used to create American dollar bills. Flax is currently produced around the world in Europe, Canada, China, India, the United States, and the Netherlands.

How Is Linen Fabric Made?

Modern-day linen is still made much like it was made in ancient Egypt. The plants are cut or pulled by hand from the ground (pulling may create finer linen). The flax is dried for several weeks. Next comes threshing (winnowing or ripping) or removing the seeds. In some cases, flax is harvested before the seeds are ready to make a stronger fiber.

Soaking or steeping flax plant stalks helps with the removal of unbroken fibers, some of the longest pieces can measure nearly 8 inches long. The fibers are then spun into yarn and woven into fabric.

The Benefits and Uses of Linen

Linen is a popular fabric choice for many reasons:

  • Absorbent: Its porous nature and moisture-wicking properties make it a favored summer fabric for clothing or bedding.
  • Conducts heat: Linen is a natural conductor of heat; it retains heat in its fibers, but not on the skin.
  • Breathable: This fabric allows more airflow to and from your body which makes linen clothes feel airy and comfortable to wear.
  • Easy to dye: Its natural fibers hold dye colors better than other materials, making this fabric available in countless colors.
  • Antibacterial and hypoallergenic: Linen is naturally antibacterial and antifungal, making it a popular choice for bandages and bed linens. It's hypoallergenic, making it a good alternative for people with allergy sensitivities.
  • Long-lasting: It is one of the longest-lasting natural fabrics, outpacing cotton, and can last 30-plus years.
  • Eco-friendly: This sustainable textile is quickly biodegradable, requires less water than cotton to cultivate, and grows in challenging environments, making it an earth-friendly choice.

Types of Linen Fabric

Linen types are distinguished by their texture, weave pattern, and how they are woven.

  • Damask linen: This ornate and delicate form of linen fabric is woven on special looms to resemble fine embroidery. It is used for craft and home decor items.
  • Plain-woven linen: This relatively rough-textured and durable fabric is often used in hand and bath towels.
  • Loosely woven linen: This utilitarian fabric is often used in reusable diapers and for crafting.
  • Sheeting linen: This closely woven fabric is commonly used in apparel and linen bedding. It has an untextured, soft surface. The thread count is generally relatively high, making for a durable, dense fabric.
  • Linen blend: This fabric combines the best qualities of cotton and linen with improved softness and wearability, making it less prone to creases. Linen blends are also less expensive than pure linen.

Linen Care

If you like the look and feel of linen clothing, it helps to learn how to iron linen to keep its notorious wrinkles at bay unless you prefer the more casual creased look. High heat on your iron and a touch of spray starch (especially on collars) yields smooth and crisp results. Remember that once you wear your linen garment, it's bound to get a little wrinkly.

To avoid most wrinkles, opt for linen blend fabrics. Be sure your linen clothes are completely dry before wearing them, as wrinkles become exaggerated when the material is damp.

What Is Starch?

Laundry starch is a spray typically made from water and cornstarch. The product adds body and crispness to the fabric, defends against stains and pilling, reduces static, and makes ironing easier.

This fabric softens as you wear it over time. If you want the fabric to remain crisp and sturdy, dry clean your linen clothing. A big plus is that linen can be machine-washed, but much like cotton, it can shrink. Wash linen items in cold or warm water. Be careful when removing stains from linen since some dyed linen may not be colorfast. Test an inconspicuous spot for colorfastness.

Design 101: Everything You Need to Know About Linen Fabric (2)

FAQ

  • How much does linen fabric cost?

    On average, linen fabric costs several dollars a yard for low quality and up to $20 for higher quality. Organic linen is the priciest.

  • How can you tell if a fabric is 100 percent linen?

    New 100 percent linen fabric feelslightweight, has a slightly rough texture, wrinkles easily, and feels cool to the touch.

  • Which is better, 100 percent linen or 100 percent cotton?

    Pure linen is better than pure cotton regarding durability and breathability, but cotton is softer and less wrinkly. A linen-cotton blend is best for durability, softness, and fewer wrinkles.

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Design 101: Everything You Need to Know About Linen Fabric (2024)

FAQs

What do you need to know about linen fabric? ›

Linen is a natural super material. It can absorb up to 20% of its own weight in moist without feeling damp, and that's why it always feels cool to the touch. Linen is incredible useful for making shirts, blouses, suits, cloths, bed linen and dish cloths. Contrasting to cotton, the flax plant is sustainable to grow.

What is a fun fact about linen fabric? ›

Linen is the second strongest natural fibre in the world

It's also 30% stronger than cotton! Linen is a very durable fabric and unlike other fabrics it doesn't pill over time. The more its worn and washed, the softer and more luxurious it gets.

How do you tell if it's 100% linen? ›

The easiest way to identify whether your linen is truly 100 % linen and made in high quality is to pay attention to these factors: weight, color, the strength of the fibers, wrinkles, slubs, and lastly, moisture-wicking qualities.

Which country produces the best linen? ›

Which country produces the best linen? Linen grown in Belgium is generally of superior quality, partly because of Belgium's long and well-respected tradition of growing flax and weaving linen, but mostly because of the unique qualities of the region where it is grown.

What makes high quality linen? ›

Texture and Feel

One good standard for linen quality is the tightness of the weave. Tighter weaves mean the texture is even and smooth, with fewer “pores” or gaps in between.

What is the best stitch for linen? ›

Use cotton thread or cotton covered polyester thread for sewing linen. Seams, Seam Finishes, and Hems: Standard straight seams, medium length stitching (2.5) are good choices. You can also use French seams, fell seams, mock welt seams, and hemstitching if you so desire.

Is linen hard to sew for beginners? ›

A linen dress or suit is an elegant choice for attending a wedding, but linen looks equally at home on the boardwalk or beach. If you have never sewn with linen, you may be afraid it is difficult to work with. Actually, linen is easy to sew; it does not slip or stretch when you are cutting it out or sewing a seam.

What makes linen special? ›

Long-lasting: It is one of the longest-lasting natural fabrics, outpacing cotton, and can last 30-plus years. Eco-friendly: This sustainable textile is quickly biodegradable, requires less water than cotton to cultivate, and grows in challenging environments, making it an earth-friendly choice.

What are the pros and cons of linen fabric? ›

Conclusion: Pros and Cons of linen and cotton
MaterialLinen
ProsHighly durable Very breathable Anti-static Natural and ecological Hypoallergenic Softens & strengthens after every wash
ConsThick and coarser texture and feeling Wrinkles easily Not a cheap option Limited colour options
Nov 16, 2022

Why do people love linen so much? ›

Linen offers exceptional breathability - it wicks moisture away from your skin, which helps to keep you cooler on hot nights and warmer on cold ones. Linen is a natural insulator and is capable of releasing excess humidity. So while cotton and wool might make you feel warmer at first, it can also make you sweat.

What is the best quality linen? ›

Belgian Linen is protected under international law, and widely known as the highest quality linen in the world. When your linen has the Belgian Linen logo, it guarantees: The linen has been grown, woven and made in Belgium using only the highest quality materials.

Why is 100% linen so expensive? ›

1. Manufacturing linen is a laborious and time-consuming process. Linen is more costly than cotton because the flax plant from which linen originates demands special care and attention during harvest and – lacking elastic properties – is harder to weave without the risk of snapping threads.

What is 100% linen made of? ›

Linen is a flax-based textile that is predominantly used for homeware applications. While linen is similar to cotton, it is made from fibers derived from the stems of the flax plant instead of the bolls that grow around cotton seeds.

What are the three major factors to consider when buying linen? ›

Here are a few things to consider when you are choosing your bed linens:
  • Size. Make sure you have the right size of linens before you purchase them. ...
  • Thread Count. Learn about thread count before you hit the store. ...
  • Amount. ...
  • Color and Style. ...
  • Material. ...
  • About the author :

What is special about linen? ›

Linen's temperature-regulating properties make it a natural ventilator and insulator at the same time, making linen clothing ideal for winter and summer weather. The fabric provides styles ideal for the hot summer weather. Linen's hollow fibers enable air to pass easily, keeping one fresh and cool.

What to look for when buying linen? ›

Buy from a reputable source

Firstly, make sure you buy from an established company that uses high grade flax for linen fabric production. European certified linen is guaranteed to be top quality and durable, so look for fabric endorsed with this certification.

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